Hylamide C25: The Vitamin C that won't oxidize
No one doubts the power of vitamin C for our skin. Vitamin C is a powerful anti oxidants, a potent skin refining ingredient, and also a trustworthy protector from free radicals. The first vitamin C I tried was from Wish Company -- the ever-so-famous O.S.T. Original Pure Vitamin C20 Serum. At first, I enjoyed the serum and thought that it worked quite well to brighten my complexion. However, I couldn't help but hate how tacky it felt on my skin. It also oxidized very quickly although I kept it in the fridge all the time. I ended up tossing it away before I used everything up after 6 months because the color had turned into nasty dark orange. After that, I didn't incorporate anymore vitamin C to my routine as I didn't want to throw anything away anymore before I emptied it. In my opinion, most Vitamin C serums on the market were too unstable and too pricey for the short shelf life. That was until I found this serum by Hylamide.
Brand Overview
Hylamide is a brand from Deciem, a company from the U.K. Deciem calls itself the abnormal beauty company and has many other brands under it. It's got everything from a high-end brand, NIOD, mid-range brand, e.g. Hylamide, to the affordable line, The Ordinary. I've heard of the Ordinary since it has gotten a lot of attention with its simple ingredients and affordable yet effective products. But Hylamide? I haven't heard much of it. I found this brand and the C25 it carries from a seller on Facebook. I knew Hylamide was from Deciem, and I had been wanting to try some Deciem's products, so I quickly looked for some reviews online and decided to try it out.
Product Overview
What sold me out in the first place was the claim that this vitamin C is very stable and won't oxidize. Unlike most vitamin C serums that use L-ascorbic acid, the C25 uses Ethyl-Ascorbate Acid that is said to be more stable than L-ascorbic Acid. Because it's fully stabilized, this serum is housed in a clear glass bottle with a dropper, and the liquid itself doesn't have any hint of color. To make it even better, it doesn't need to be stored in the fridge which I appreciate very much!
From the Deciem website, this product is marketed as a booster to target dullness, uneven tone. textural irregularities, and fine lines. It contains 25% Ethylated Vitamin C which offers a fast-tracked approach to a visibly radiant, healthy-looking skin tone. It's on sale for $49 on Deciem's website, but I managed to get it at only IDR 330.000 from a local seller.
Ingredients
Ingredients wise, I was surprised to see how short they are. There are only 4 ingredients in total: ethoxydiglycol, ethyl ascorbic acid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, and phenylethyl resorcinol. I think this is the simplest formulated product I have in my entire collection. It's water-free, alcohol-free, oil-free, silicone-free, nut-free, vegan, and cruelty free. Everything sounds perfect so far, right?
Texture & Application
Hylamide C25 Booster has a very watery consistency, but then strangely it is also very oily to the touch -- not the kind of oiliness you find from face oils, though! I have an oily skin, so when I picked it up, the oil-like texture was my biggest concern. Once it sits on the skin, surprisingly, it gets absorbed fairly quickly and dries down to nothing. It disappears just like that.
Applying it is another tricky issue. You have to make sure you apply just enough so that the vitamin C can be absorbed fast. The more you use, the oilier it will feel, and the longer it will take to be absorbed. I find 3-4 drops as the perfect amount to cover my entire face and neck. I don't put it directly on my face. Instead, I put it on my palms, rub them together, then press the product onto my face. I feel like this way, the product goes into my skin the quickest and leaves no greasy feeling. I also allow 3-4 minutes for the product to be fully absorbed before applying my next product.
I use the C25 once a day in the morning. I used to think that vitamin C was best applied at night as I heard it could photo-sensitize the skin and could be dangerous if exposed to the sun. However, after some research, I found that by using vitamin C in the morning, it actually helps to protect our skin from sun damage and acts as a strong antioxidant! Hylamide actually suggests applying C25 twice a day, but in the end it's all up to you. I personally use it only in the morning since my night time routine contains another acid (BHA). If you decide to use vitamin C in the morning, make sure to always apply sunscreen so that the vitamin C doesn't get oxidized in the sun!
In the end, no matter when you layer on your vitamin C, never use it within a few hours of salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or retinol (including face washes and spot treatments) to avoid burning, stinging, and redness.
Result
After a week of using Hylamide's C25, I've already felt some improvements in my skin texture. Some bumps I had around my forehead have diminished and almost gone. This serum also doesn't cause any burning or stinging sensation! I think it is because ethyl ascorbic acid isn't as powerful as L-ascorbic acid. I have yet to see some improvements regarding my acne scars and hyper-pigmentation. It might need some time to see further changes, but so far I've been enjoying it!
Verdict
Hylamide's C25 is a decent vitamin C for those who are tired of their easily-oxidized vitamin C and don't rely on vitamin C alone to improve skin textures. In my opinion, it's not as powerful as other vitamin C in the market and will not make any immediate differences. It's definitely more effective when used in conjunction with other more powerful products and acids. If you're willing to work patiently with it, this serum/booster is worth the try.
Final Score: 4/5
I have to take one point off because the texture might put some people off, and it's pretty much on the pricier side. There are some more affordable vitamin C serums/formulations out there which can produce the same effect though not as stable.
Will I repurchase? Yes! I think I've found the perfect vitamin C for my skin.
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